Flea shampoos
A shampoo, or "flea bath" is a good first attack on fleas for the pet that has large numbers of fleas visible on its body. Cats can be difficult to bathe. It is important to realize that a flea shampoo is not intended for lasting control. Many people are surprised when they see fleas and it was "only a week ago" that the pet had a flea bath. Shampoos are only effective for a day or less. They leave little residual chemical on the animal when properly used.

Flea collars
Flea collars work one of two ways - by emitting a toxic (to fleas, anyway) gas, and by being absorbed into the animal's subcutaneous fat layer. The toxic gas is usually only effective in the immediate area of the head and neck. This type of collar is best used in the vacuum cleaner bags to kill any fleas vacuumed up. The collars that absorb into the subcutaneous fat are much more effective, such as Seresto collars for cats and dogs.

Flea powders and sprays
Flea powders and sprays offer short term (2-3 day) protection from fleas, and with some products, ticks and mites too. Powders and sprays have fallen out of favour recently with the newer spot-on treatments that are available. Most flea powders and sprays are only effective for adult fleas, some offer additional flea protection by inhibiting flea egg and larval development.

Spot-on treatments
Common brand names include: Advantage, Frontline , Broadline just to name a few. Please consult with your veterinarian for the best choice for your pet(s).

These products are applied between the shoulder blades of the pet, and typically last about one month. Spot-on treatments are effective for adult fleas. Some include ingredients to inhibit the larva from emerging from the flea egg and some are active against larval development as well.

There are also some that include a wormer to provide ongoing control of roundworms. These include Revolution and Advocate.

Please be aware that they do not control tapeworms.

Oral medications
Flea "pills", such as Comfortis work by stopping the larva from emerging from the flea egg. Fleas ingest the blood of animals on these medications, and the female fleas then lay eggs that are unable to hatch. They do NOT kill adult fleas. These medications are essential to break the flea life cycle and stop the flea problem when used in conjunction with flea adulticide treatments.

Flea control for your house and yard
Only about 10% of the flea population (mainly the adults) are on your pet. The flea eggs, larvae, pupa, and the few adults that reside in the carpeting, bedding, and living areas make up approximately 90% of the flea population. Neglecting this population of fleas will ensure that the flea problem will continue and worsen over time.

Daily vacuuming - this is very important for overall flea eradication. This will pick up (and get rid of) adults, eggs, larvae and pupae before they develop. Putting a flea collar in the vacuum bag and emptying the bag frequently are also important; otherwise, the fleas will hatch, develop, and leave the vacuum to re-infest the living quarters. Dispose of the vacuum bag properly and frequently.

Wash all bedding, clothing, and removable furniture covers regularly (weekly).

Apply insecticide to home and yard - There are many options, foggers and flea bombs, or treatments by a professional exterminator. Follow all instructions very carefully; remove all pets, people, and cover all food in the environment before applying insecticide. Make sure everything is dry and it is safe to return according to package directions. Take special precautions for pets and children - eating or putting items in their mouth, etc.

Grooming your dog at home is a great way to save money and bond with your dog at the same time! Also, it can help you to pick up on any health-related abnormalities that would otherwise go unnoticed such as skin conditions, fleas, superficial lumps etc.

Grooming Tips «

Different types of coat require different types of brushes and combs. Research what will work best for your dog before wasting your money. Ask your local groomer or veterinarian for advice.

Brushing should be performed daily or weekly dependent on coat type.

When bathing your dog, brush first to remove excess hair. Keep the water at a comfortable temperature to make the bath experience as pleasant and positive as possible.

Take care when washing around the face and neck not to get soap and water into the dogs eyes and ears. You can wedge a cotton ball into their ears to prevent water from going down the ear canal. Remember to take out afterwards! It may benefit to use a wash cloth around the face to prevent the above from happening.

Using a leave in conditioner can help to detangle and reduce the occurrence of knots, it also makes your dog smell nice and give it a glossy coat.

Long haired dogs benefit from having their hair trimmed from around their faces and bottom, it keeps them cleaner and more hygienic.

Introduce hair driers and clippers slowly as dogs may not like the noise

Some breeds of dog (Poodle, Bichon Frise, Maltese, Spaniels etc) require regular plucking of their ear canals to help keep them open and dry and reduce the occurrence of ear infections.

Be gentle when cleaning your dog's ears. Dampen cotton balls with appropriate ear cleaning solution and gently clean the outer ear. If your dog's ears are particularly dirty, irritated or smelly, consult your veterinarian as there may be an ear infection.

Patiently work with your dog to get him accustomed to you handling his paws and nails. Once he is comfortable with that, introduce nail clipping, begin by cutting one nail a day and giving lots of praise so that he can associate nail trimming with a positive experience.

This will have great benefits in the future as this can end up being a very stressful procedure!

To clip your dogs nails you need to avoid the “quick” which houses the nails blood supply and nerve endings. This can be easily seen in nails with no pigment i.e. pink/white nails., you will see the pink quick in the middle of the nail. With black nails it pays to cut a little at a time.

If you cut into the quick don't panic, apply pressure with a cotton ball or clean cloth and apply styptic powder for 30 seconds or until the bleeding stops.

Use a toothbrush/finger brush or rough cloth and pet toothpaste to massage your dogs teeth on a daily basis. This will help prevent tartar build-up and it will enable you to keep an eye on your dog's teeth and any potential problems.

If you are not able to brush your dog’s teeth, there are other options. Consider using oral rinses made especially for dogs. You can also purchase special dental treats. Avoid real bones – not only can they lead to gastrointestinal upset, they may also cause tooth fractures.

Common Household Hazards

There are food and common household items that can be dangerous to your new dog. They should be stored safely beyond their reach in locked cabinets or away from reach. There are more comprehensive lists available online; however what follows is a list of the most common household hazards:

Not all food consumed by humans are safe for pets. Here is a list of foods that can be hazardous:

Alcoholic beverages Caffeine Chocolate Fatty foods

Chicken and turkey bones Grapes and raisins Onions Macadamia nuts

Salt and sugar Yeast dough Avocado

Be conscious of the everyday items that are poisonous to your dog and keep them secured:

All medications Anfreeze Rodent poison Batteries

Car care products Fertilizer Household cleaners Nicotine products

Insecticides Pools and ponds A range of house and garden plants

If your pet ingests a dangerous substance, don’t hesitate, call your Veterinarian immediately.

For information on poisoning visit: www.poisons.co.nz

Microchips

A microchip is roughly the size of a single grain of rice and it is implanted just beneath your pet’s skin, between their shoulder blades.

All animal control officers, animal care facilities, and veterinary hospitals scan stray animals for microchips.

It is important for you to register your dog’s microchip with your local council. You can also register them with the National Companion Animal Register which is an online facility that provides your pets details on a National basis so you the owner can be easily tracked no matter where in the country they end up. You can visit their website www.animalregister.co.nz for more information.

You must also keep your microchip information up to date! Owners frequently fail to update their microchip information when they move or change their phone number and pets can end up stranded at the local animal care facility without any owner information.

Microchip regulations came into force in New Zealand on 1^st July 2006. Dogs first registered on or after this date, excluding dogs kept solely or mainly for herding or driving stock require microchipping.

Any owner who fails to implant a microchip into their dog (unless exempt) is liable for a fine of $300.00.

Microchips are a great identification tool, but they are no substitute for ID tags. Be sure to equip your pet with a personal ID tag, complete with current phone numbers and/or address.

Did you know that dental disease is one of the most common health issues in dogs and cats? In fact, dental disease can undermine your pet’s good health and can be very painful and expensive.

Gingivitis is inflammation of the gingival soft tissues surrounding the teeth which is common in dogs and cats. Not only are the teeth at risk, but also the bacterial infection and resultant pain. By the age of three, approximately 80% of dogs and 70% of cats will have some form of gum disease.

Bacteria combine with the soup of saliva and food at the junction between the tooth and gums and form plaque. Gingivitis is caused by the accumulation of this plaque. The plaque grows on the tooth and, as the bacteria continue to proliferate, calcium salts combine with the plaque. These calcium salts form concrete-like tartar to develop on the teeth, leading to periodontal disease.

Periodontal disease causes red swollen, tender gums, salivation and sometimes difficulty eating. The gums often recede and bleeding is common. Pain occurs when the animal eats and it may not eat properly due to the discomfort. Eventually tooth loss occurs as infection destroys the bone around the gum. The bacteria are also continually absorbed into the pet’s body and can cause heart, liver, kidney and lung disease.

]]> jj@mobilevet.co.nz (Julia) Preventative Healthcare Tue, 05 Mar 2013 01:46:57 +0000 http://www.mountvet.co.nz/index.php/preventative-healthcare/canine-vaccinations http://www.mountvet.co.nz/index.php/preventative-healthcare/canine-vaccinations

Vaccinations are an essential part of a dog’s healthcare regime – from his puppy days to his senior status.

Good jab! «

Vaccinations, when given regularly, should afford dogs long-term, lifetime protection against the serious and sometimes fatal diseases caused by viruses.

Once in their system, a vaccine mimics a particular virus or bacteria, triggering the body's own immune response. After that, the immune response is ready and prepared to fight any future infection by that virus.

Puppies should begin vaccinations at between 6 and 8 weeks of age, so schedule a visit to your vet as soon as you can. Most vaccines are injected as part of a series, and one year after the last in the series, your dog will need boosters.

Vaccination protocols may vary, so follow your vet's recommended vaccination programme. Your vet will also be able to advise you on the range of vaccinations your dog should take.

The most common dog vaccinations «

Canine distemper

A highly contagious and potentially fatal virus affecting the respiratory, gastrointestinal and nervous systems. It generally spreads as an airborne infection, with vaccination the only effective control.

The distemper virus is spread by inhaling infected droplets (ie close contact with an infected animal that sneezes/coughs) and is most prevalent in young animals. Thankfully because of vaccination Distemper is rarely seen these days

Infectious canine hepatitis (adenovirus)

This viral disease affects the liver, kidneys and the cells lining the blood vessels, causing high fever, thirst, loss of appetite, abdominal pain, liver damage and haemorrhaging.

Can be fatal or may result in chronic liver disease.

Parvovirus

A common but deadly viral infection, with symptoms including severe diarrhoea, fever and vomiting.

Most commonly in puppies/young dogs. Dogs become infected after coming into contact with the virus which can be shed in large numbers in infected faeces.

Leptospirosis

Is a bacterial infection that is of particular relevance as it can be passed to humans. In dogs liver and kidney failure may be seen and severe acute infections are often fatal. The disease is transmitted via close contact with an infected animal through urine, the placenta, bites or by eating infected material. Humans can contract Leptospirosis through contact with infected dog, rat or cow urine.

Prevalent in the upper half of the North Island in New Zealand.

Canine Parainfluenza Virus and Adenovirus 2

Both viruses cause infectious tracheobronchitis (kennel cough) The most common symptom is a severe hacking cough that persists for 10 -14 days. They are transmitted by inhaling infected droplets (ie sneeze/cough) so are a particular issue in kennels or dog shelters where animals are in close contact

Bordetella Bronchiseptica

Is a bacteria that can also cause kennel cough either by itself or in combination with the other respiratory viruses. Like the respiratory viruses it is spread by inhaling infected droplets the predominant symptom is a harsh cough that resolves within 10-14 days.

Roundworms

Roundworms are zoonotic parasites, which means they can be passed from animals to humans - especially children. They can also be exceptionally good survivors, with viable eggs able to live outside the animal for several years. Roundworm symptoms include vomiting, diarrhoea, pot-belly and colic. Puppies and kittens can develop roundworm at the foetal stage, prior to being born.

]]> jj@mobilevet.co.nz (Julia) Preventative Healthcare Tue, 05 Mar 2013 01:06:06 +0000 http://www.mountvet.co.nz/index.php/preventative-healthcare/demodectic-mange http://www.mountvet.co.nz/index.php/preventative-healthcare/demodectic-mange

Generalised Demodectic mange is a potentially debilitating skin condition of dogs caused by Demodex canis, the demodectic mite. Mites are often transmitted from a nursing bitch to her puppies and in adult dogs appear when the immune system is weak. Certain dog breeds are more sensitive to demodectic mange. Lesions initially appear on the muzzle and paws, which then spread all over the animal.

Localized cases occur when these mites proliferate in one or two small, confined areas. This results in isolated scaly bald patches-usually on the dog's face-creating a polka-dot appearance. Localized demodicosis is considered a common ailment of puppyhood, and approximately 90% of cases resolve with no treatment of any kind.

Generalized demodectic mange, in contrast, affects larger areas of skin or a dog’s entire body. Secondary bacterial infections make this a very itchy and often smelly skin disease. This form of mange could also be a sign of a compromised immune system, hereditary problem, endocrine problem or other underlying health issue. Treatment depends on the age at which the dog developed the disease.

Sarcoptic Mange is a highly irritating and debilitating skin disease of dogs.
Sarcoptic mites cause intense pruritis (itchiness), alopecia (hair loss), self-trauma, wrinkling and thickening of the skin. The lesions caused by sarcoptes can spread all over the animal producing intense itching.

Sarcoptes, tiny spiderlike mites, are highly contagious and are transmitted primarily by direct contact and through contaminated grooming equipment and kennels. These mites are also transferable to humans and other pets.

Probably no other skin disease will cause your dog to scratch and bite at her skin with such intensity. The severe itching is caused by female mites tunneling a few millimeters under the skin to lay their eggs. The eggs hatch in 3 to 10 days. The immature mites develop into adults and begin to lay eggs of their own. The entire life cycle occurs on the dog’s skin, and takes just 17 to 21 days.

The diagnosis is made by examining skin scrapings under a microscope. In some cases the mites may not be identified. If the dog’s symptoms strongly suggest scabies, your veterinarian may decide to begin treatment as a diagnostic test. A positive response to the treatment confirms the diagnosis of scabies.